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"wear what you want" by using our products: Dove's branding evolution (pt. 3)

In 2004, Dove began their “Real Beauty Campaign” as a response to their 2003 global research study which found that “less than 2% of women feel beautiful.”[1] The Campaign for Real Beauty (CFRB) has been written about extensively so instead, I’ll be taking a look at a new campaign, “The Girl Collective,” however it is important to address the history of their body-positive campaigns to show their evolution.

In brief, the CFRB advertisements were used “as a means of branding the corporation as a feminist advocate for women (although this strategy oppresses women) as well as a process of self-branding women and girls as empowered “real beauties,”” wrote Dara Persis Murray in her analysis of Dove. By positioning themselves as body positive, Dove attempts to brand themselves as feminists.

Note: Dove has since made this advertisement private. Instead, enjoy a veeeeery old CFRB ad!

The “Girl Collective” works in a similar way. It is meant to be a “sisterhood that builds confidence and challenges beauty stereotypes.”[2] The advertisement focuses on three young girls in different settings being told that they are “exactly who [they] need to be.” Just like with CFRB, this idea of the body being a place of anxiety is continued, although perhaps less explicitly stated. Unlike with the CFRB ads, which focus on pointing out the “flaws” of the women versus how they “should” perceive themselves as, this commercial does this less overtly. They show clips that are meant to send that same message without directly pointing out the girls’ insecurities, such as when one of the girls tugs on her bathing suit, indicating a sense of discomfort. None of the girls are smiling either until they receive a message saying they are perfect the way they are.

This commercial is an example of neoliberalism and the body melding together. According to Lavrence and Lozanski, in a neoliberalist society, “individuals are encouraged to enact [their potential] through their participation in a market economy.”[3] What does this mean? In short, it means that you must buy products to reach your potential. For Dove – and for these girls – it means that in order to gain confidence, it must do so by going through the Dove market, by taking part in Dove’s campaign and empowering themselves through Dove. Dove can’t target the institutions that create these insecurities – it would be contradictory for them to do so because that would mean going after groups like themselves. Dove can’t say that big corporations are affecting girls’ self-esteem because they are one of those big corporations. Instead, Dove suggests that “it becomes up to individuals to develop the emotional proficiency necessary to overcome structural barriers and their consequences,” as Lavrence and Lozanski state. For these girls, it is up to them to seek help (from Dove) to gain confidence.

Neoliberalism’s goal of self-help and the concept of commodity feminism are related. Much like the neoliberalist view of the self where wellness is seen by Lavrence and Lozasnki “as a personal, obligatory, and moral achievement to both self and community,” commodity feminism presents “objectified female sexuality…as a personal achievement…[and the] choice of which body to pursue your freedom in.”[4] This advertisement invites the audience to take part in helping girls achieve better self-esteem which can be done through the acceptance of one’s body and the choice to be who “you” want to be. As Goldman writes, “self-acceptance is ostensibly the key to a happier life.”

This is not to say that Dove isn’t trying to help girls, women, and fathers be happy as who they are (as opposed to what the media says they should be), but it is important to be critical about companies taking a stance. Yes, companies can fight for the greater good, but their main goal will always be to make a profit. And critical does not equate to negative. Being critical requires research and seeing the good, the bad, and everything in between.

If you really want to look at a company that knows how to do this, Ben & Jerry’s has a great history of doing good for various marginalized communities. I think that’s what we need more of: peace, love, and ice cream (and the dismantling of white supremacy).



[1] Murray, 2013. Branding “real” social change in Dove’s campaign for real beauty. Feminist Media Studies, 13(1), 83-101, https://doi.org/10.1080/14680777.2011.647963.

[2] Dove, 2018.

[3] Lavrence & Lozanski, 2014. “This is not your practice life”: lululemon and the neoliberal governance of self. Canadian Review of Sociology/Revue Canadienne de sociologie, vol. 51, 2014, 76-94.

[4] Goldman et al., 1991. Commodity feminism. Critical Studies in Mass Communication, 8(3), 333-351. 


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